The Riviera Guide

The guide · by Metro Mode

Èze

A medieval village on a 429-metre rock, and its own small seaside below

Èze
Photo: cristianbalate/Adobe Stock

Èze climbs from the sea to a sharp rock: at the bottom, the hamlet of Èze-Bord-de-Mer (the station calls it Èze-sur-Mer); at the top, at 429 metres, the old houses of Èze-Village, with Saint-Laurent-d'Èze between them. The village's labyrinth of lanes is full of craft workshops, and the ruins of its castle now hold the Jardin exotique, with its cactus and succulents and the view down the whole coast.

The Chemin de Nietzsche links the two Èzes: 2,100 metres and 400 metres of height, about 45 minutes down and an hour and a half up. Nietzsche, wintering in Nice in 1883–84, is said to have walked it while he conceived the third part of Thus Spoke Zarathustra.

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